The Icelanders have spoken, and they have spoken with the blunt, brine-scented authority of a people who know the precise difference between a national identity and a regulatory annex. On a grey North Atlantic morning, while the rest of Europe was still debating the precise shade of grey required for the next Commission press release, the voters of Iceland delivered their verdict on the question of whether they should resume accession talks with the European Union.
They said no. Not with the hysterical flourish of a continental protest march, but with the quiet finality of a fisherman hauling in a net that contains exactly what he expected and nothing he did not. The government’s clever notion of advancing the vote by more than a year, in the apparent belief that a spot of geopolitical weather might panic the island into the waiting arms of Brussels, was met with what can only be described as a giant North Atlantic cod applied vigorously to the collective official face.
One must pause to admire the economy of the gesture. Iceland, that improbable outcrop of lava, saga and stubbornness, has never been particularly interested in being told that its destiny lies in a PowerPoint presentation drafted in a glass building several time zones away. Its culture is not a regional variant of something larger; it is a deliberate, centuries-long experiment in remaining itself. The sagas were not written by committee. The language, that austere and beautiful survival of Old Norse, did not evolve in order to accommodate twenty-seven official translations of a directive on the curvature of bananas. The people who live there have spent a millennium learning how to extract a living from a landscape that regards human ambition with glacial indifference. The idea that this hard-won particularity should now be dissolved into the great bureaucratic consommé of the European project was always going to strike them as a peculiar form of self-harm.
And so they rejected it. They rejected the soft coercion of globalisation dressed up as historical inevitability. They rejected the assumption that national sovereignty is a picturesque anachronism to be retained only in folk museums and tourism brochures. In doing so they performed a small, bracing act of cultural self-respect that ought to make more fashionable capitals shift uncomfortably in their seats. Icelandic culture is not a lifestyle accessory. It is the accumulated result of isolation, literacy, volcanic interruption and an almost unnatural attachment to the idea that a free people ought to decide their own fishing quotas. The cod, in this context, is not merely a fish. It is a symbol of the proposition that some things are not for sale, and that the sea does not recognise the Common Fisheries Policy.
The European Union, of course, took a different view. For years it has regarded the remaining non-members of the north-western fringe with the proprietary interest of a landlord eyeing an empty flat. The pitch is always the same: come inside where it is warm, where the rules are harmonised, where the currency is shared and the destiny is collective. What is left unsaid is that the warmth is institutional, the rules are written by people who will never have to live under the consequences in a small open economy, and the collective destiny has a curious habit of looking remarkably like the destiny preferred by the larger members. The attempt to draw Iceland into the process was less an invitation than an exercise in administrative gravity. Assimilation was the unspoken destination; the referendum was merely the procedural obstacle.
At the centre of this project stands Ursula von der Leyen, a figure who has perfected the art of looking simultaneously earnest and slightly surprised that anyone might disagree with her. One imagines her receiving the news from Reykjavík with the expression of a headmistress who has just been informed that the prefects have voted against the new school uniform. There is something almost poignant in the spectacle: the President of the Commission, that tireless evangelist for ever-closer union, confronted by an island that has looked at the prospectus and decided the boarding fees are too high and the house rules intolerable. The embarrassment is not merely political; it is aesthetic. To be rebuffed by a nation whose entire population could fit inside a medium-sized European city, and whose principal export has historically been fish and literature, is to be reminded that scale is not the same thing as authority, and that moral seriousness does not automatically confer the right to absorb one’s neighbours.
Von der Leyen’s difficulty is structural. She embodies an institution that has come to regard national difference as a transitional inconvenience rather than a permanent feature of the human landscape. The Icelanders, by contrast, appear to regard it as the entire point. Their rejection was not a fit of xenophobia or a romantic attachment to autarky. It was a cold-eyed calculation that the unique character of their society – the language that still reads like the Middle Ages, the democratic habits forged in isolation, the economic dependence on resources that Brussels would prefer to manage from a distance – was worth more than the dubious consolations of membership. In an age when globalisation is sold as both inevitable and benign, they have insisted on the right to remain particular.
The rest of us are left with the mildly unedifying spectacle of a superstate that cannot quite believe it has been declined by a country whose most famous literary achievement involves blood feuds and poetic justice. The cod has been delivered. The face of official Europe, and in particular the carefully composed features of Ursula von der Leyen, bears the imprint. One suspects the bruise will fade. The principle, rather less so. Iceland has simply declined to be improved. In the current climate, that counts as a minor miracle of good taste.